CanonFD FAQL

The purpose of this FAQL is to compile a lot of small pieces of information, tips and stuff about the Canon FD photography system (comprising SLR cameras, manual focusing lenses and accesories) that doesn't appear in reference manuals or the usual resources. Much of the information here has been taken from comments in the Canon FD mailing list. Suggestions are, obviously, welcome.

Legal disclaimer: everything you read here could be a total lie! Besides that, much of the content here is based on opinions, so your mileage may vary.

Version 1.9.3, 30/04/2014

Contents:



GENERAL STUFF



What are the specifications and capabilites for each body and lens?

What is the weight of the 50mm f/1.4 lens? How many elements does the 300mm f/4L lens have? What is the minimum focusing distance of the 35-105mm zoom?

That kind of information is already very well covered by Leonard Foo in his Canon FD section at Photography in Malaysia, and in the Canon Camera Museum, so it won't be duplicated here.

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I need to find X manual!

You have a very good chance of finding it at Christian Rollinger's Canon FD documentation project.

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How much should I pay for an FD body or a lens, etcetera?

Vladimir Antonov's Canon FD - ebay Price Guide is a useful guide. Though prices might not be necessarily current, it does a good job of showing the relative value and rarity of the different items.

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What does X abbreviation mean?

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LENSES



What's the difference between breech-lock and bayonet mount?

Essentially, there is no functional difference between the older silver-mount-ring breech-lock (1971-1978) and newer all-black bayonet-mount (1979-end of production) lenses. The bayonet-mount (also known as "FDn", "nFD" or "New FD") lenses are probably the more popular of the two styles, although the breech-lock lenses are considered by some as the more durable of the two. For a given lens model (e.g., FD 50mm f/1.4), the bayonet-mount lenses were redesigned and are generally lighter and more compact when compared to the breech-lock versions.

Both types of mount did coexist, as breech-lock was phased out. The 35mm f/2.8 Tilt and Shift lens was never made in bayonet mount. Same goes for the extension tubes and the teleconverters.

The following picture illustrates the difference between both mounts and an EF mount:

[Canon mounts]

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How do the body and lens communicate?

Mike Brand wrote the article full aperture metering explanation, available on a separate page.

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Are there two different types of rear-lens caps?

Yes. The older breech-lock lenses had a different type of rear cap than the ones in the bayonet-mount lenses. The former caps (smooth sided) won't work on bayonet mount, while the latter ones (ribbed type) will work in either.

The section describing the difference between breech-lock and bayonet mount has a picture with the different caps.

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What is the difference between FL and FD lenses?

Basic difference is the ability to couple with AE system bodies for Auto Exposure - either shutter or aperture priority or full program. FL lenses have no such coupling, and when used on FD bodies must be stopped down to meter. All the FL lenses were breech mounted (which is a mechanical consideration, not a functional one).

In addition to the above, FL lenses will not allow full-aperture metering even on non-AE bodies like the FTb, and must still be stopped down to meter. This is because they do not have a full-aperture signal pin (this is one of the reasons Canon brought out the FD line).

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What do the abbreviations "S.C." and "S.S.C." in the lenses mean?

Canon FD lenses have coating for flare control (not necessarily image quality).

"S.C." is Spectra Coated. "S.S.C." is Super Spectra Coated (more layers of coatings to help with the transmission of light from air to glass).

When Canon adopted the "new FD" mount (bayonet mount) they also dropped the S.S.C. designator.

All "New FD" lenses EXCEPT the FD 50mm f/1.8 were multi-coated (i.e., they have the "S.S.C." coating, albeit the newer "formulation"); the FD 50mm f/1.8 remained an "S.C." lens.

The lenses that are S.C. coated are not necessarily of lesser quality than the S.S.C. lens. Some designs just didn't require as much coating to produce the desired effect.

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How can I tell the 200mm IF lens from the other ones?

The quickest visual way to distinguish a 200mm f/2.8 IF nFD lens from any other 200mm f/2.8 is that it's the only one with a diamond pattern rubber grip on the rear of the built-in hood.

Optically, they're pretty much equivalent; the IF version is considered the most desirable for two reasons:

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How many different 35mm f/2 designs are there?

There were six versions of the Canon FD 35mm f/2 lens, but only three optical designs.

The concave front element lenses (there were four variations) all share the same formula (using thorium glass). According to Chuck Westfall of Canon, there was a concern over the health issues surrounding thorium dust in the grinding process during lens production.

35mm f/2.0 lenses
lens date introduced mount remarks
FD 35mm f/2 I 3/1971 breech floating system, S/N 10001 to 12199, chrome nose
FD 35mm f/2 II --- breech same optics, S/N 12200 to 20000, chrome nose
FD 35mm f/2 III 3/1971 breech same optics, S/N 20001 and up (maybe a black nose lens with no coating designation in red letters)
FD 35mm f/2 S.S.C. I 3/1973 breech same optics, Super Spectra Coated
FD 35mm f/2 S.S.C. II 4/1976 breech new optics, floating system, Super Spectra Coated
FD 35mm f/2 12/1979 new newest optics, Super Spectra Coated, floating system, new mount

When they designed the replacement 35mm f/2 (without thorium) they used a convex front element and kept the 55mm filter size. The new FD 35mm lens (52mm filter size) is yet another lens design.

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What Canon lenses are bad?

The general consensus is that the following lenses aren't up to the standards of the rest of the FD family:

The 50mm f/2.0 lens has a very bad reputation because it was a cheapened version of the 50mm f/1.8 with lower quality and degraded performance, even though specwise it should have been the same as said lens, with only a change in minimum aperture. It came only bundled with a T60 body (a complete POS camera, released in 1990, not actually made by Canon but by Cosina) and not with all T60 bodies at that. Very few units were made, so that makes it a rare find; this tends to make unexperienced buyers commit the mistake of paying extra money for this lens instead of the more plentiful, cheaper and better 50mm f/1.8 lens.

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What non-Canon lenses are good?

The Tokina ATX lenses are well considered in this regard. Among others, the ATX 28-85mm, the ATX 80-200mm f/2.8 and the ATX SD 150-500mm f/5.6 lenses.

The early versions of the Vivitar series 1 70-210mm lens are also good.

Among wide angles, the Vivitar 19mm f/3.8 and Tokina 17mm f/3.5 are good.

The following macro lenses are highly considered:

Getting a converter P (or a generic equivalent) opens up the possibility of using the vast array of M42 lenses, where there's a LOT to choose from - among MANY others, Zeiss Tessar lenses, the Flektogon 20mm f/2.8, various Pentax Takumar lenses, and a long etcetera. The only downside is that these lenses need to use stopped-down metering.

These Pentax Takumars are highly regarded (be sure to look for the SMC models):

Do check out the Cult Classics in Third Party Lenses website, by Robert Monaghan.

Be sure to investigate, there surely are other great lenses that aren't mentioned here!

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Which extender should I use: 2x-A or 2x-B?

Canon manufactured three extenders, also known as teleconverters, to increase the focal length of their lenses: the 1.4x-A, the 2x-A and the 2x-B.

Extenders 1.4x-A and 2x-A were designed for use with any FD fixed focal length lens of 300mm OR LARGER as well as for any FD zoom that includes 300mm within its range. The extender 2x-B was designed for use with any FD fixed focal length lens LESS THAN 300mm which includes any FD zoom that does not reach 300mm.

Exceptions:

The 2x-A & 2x-B extenders double the focal lengths; the effective apertures are reduced by 2 f/stops. The 1.4x-A increases the focal length by a factor of 1.4 and effective apertures are reduced by 1 f/stop. Though the focal lengths are increased, the minimum focusing distance will remain the same as that of the lens without an extender. Extenders allow full-aperture metering as well as automatic diaphragm coupling. Canon literature claims optical performance of the lens is uncompromised.

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What third party teleconverters are good?

The Vivitar Macro Focusing teleconverter and the Tokina 2x 7-element model are well regarded.

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STUFF FOR LENSES



What is the difference between the FD and M extension tubes?

The FD15-U, FD25-U and FD50-U are the auto aperture extension tubes; this means they are able to set the lens aperture automatically as if it were directly connected to the camera body.

The M extension tubes (M5, M10 and M20) are tubes that only have the mounts on either side (and lack the mechanics the FD ones have), so the aperture has to be set manually on the lens. It also means an aperture locking accessory (a small plastic piece that snaps on the aperture lever and keeps it locked as if the lens were mounted on a camera) or a macro auto ring is needed. This way you can control the aperture manually.

The vari-extension tubes M15-25 and M30-55 feature abjustable length. Manual diaphragm control is necessary.

Due to the fact that the FD extension tubes are automatic, Canon does not recommend using them in cascade (more than one mounted together), as this will strain the camera's aperture control mechanism. The M tubes don't have this problem, so you can stack up as many as you want (in theory). Canon does not recommend stacking up the vari-extension tubes, either.

Of course, the number (or set of numbers, for the vari-extension tubes) in each tube model refers to its length in millimeters.

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What's the correct Canon-issued hood for my X lens?

In the beginning (FL lenses) the hoods were just marked "W" for wide angle, "S" for standard and "T" for telephoto, followed by the diameter of the fitting. When the FD lenses were introduced, the hoods acquired the "B" prefix (it's assumed it stands for "bayonet"), and different versions of some of the hoods were introduced for different focal lengths. For example:

Zoom lenses must have hoods which don't vignette at their widest point, which usually means that they are totally useless at the other end of the zoom scale. For example, the 35-105mm f/3.5 uses a BW-72B - a wide angle hood (because of the 35mm end) which is pretty pointless at the 105mm end. The 70-210mm f/4, on the other hand, uses a BT-58 - a telephoto hood (because of the 70mm end) which is actually not too bad at the 210mm end.

To see which hood you need, take a look at the Canon FD lenses listing in the Photography in Malaysia website, or Dennis Baron's Canon FD Lens Info webpage.

Two particular hoods tend to be confused a lot, so these are detailed here:

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How to properly care for a hood?

Canon-issued hoods have three plastic tabs which engage tabs on the front of the lens to securely lock the hood on, with only about a 90° turn twist (as opposed to lining up the filter threads and winding). In addition, they can be reversed on the lens and bayonet onto it in the storage position.

Now, leaving the hood fastening mechanism engaged for months and years causes the plastic to deform, and the hood won't ever lock on again.

The solution is: when putting lenses away, reverse the hood on the lens, but don't lock it on. Just let it sit there, freely. Then, put the lens cap on, over the hood. It will keep the hood from falling off without having to engage the plastic tabs.

(there are older Canon hoods that use regular filter threads - this section does not apply to them)

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What 34mm drop-in filters are there?

Several long telephotos (300mm f/4, 300mm f/4L, 400mm f/4.5, 500mm f/8 and 150-600mm f/5.6) use proprietary 34mm drop-in filters. The available types are:

Replacing the 34mm glass with the Tiffen's 37mm filters.

PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Remove the glass from your drop-in filter. Use something like a dental pick to remove the inside retaining ring. The glass can now be removed. Then you can add any of Tiffens' 37mm screw-on filters in your filter holder. Despite the mismatched numbers they fit perfectly (go to B&H Photo Video and search "37mm Tiffen filters" to see what they sell (there are skylight, UV, polarizer, warming, neutral density, enhancing filters, etcetera). The Tiffen 37mm filters are removed from their screw-in ring in the same manner as the 34mm Canon drop-in, then mounted in the latter filter holder.

Again, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

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Are there converters for lenses of other brands?

The short registration distance in the Canon FD system (42.0mm) allows for many lenses of other brands to be used, with the help of a converter (in Canon's terminology it's "converter" instead of the more usual "adapter"). Canon made adapters for M42, Nikon F-mount, Exakta and M39 systems. Other converters can be custom-built, provided the registration distance for the lens is known.

[converters A, B, E and P, front view] [converters A, B, E and P, back view]

M42

The Canon Lens Mount Converter P is used for M42 screwmount lenses. This converter is not very hard to get, and there are numerous generic equivalent adapters. It (and most of the generic clones) does retain infinity focus; a few of the cheapest generic clones might not.

[converter P]

Nikon F-mount

The Canon Lens Mount Converter N is used for Nikon's non-AI and AI glass and tilt/shift bellows, PB-4.

There are two different models of this converter, though they're functionally equivalent. The first one was marketed by Bell&Howell, and is marked as "BH MT. CONVERTER N" (see the model in the bigger pictures); the second one was marketed by Canon itself and is marked simply "MC-N" (see the model in the smaller pictures).

This adapter, in either version, is pretty hard to get. There is, however, at least one cheap generic clone that should do the job without problems.

[converter N]

[converter N, front] [converter N, back]

Exakta

The Canon Lens Mount Converter E is for Exakta mount lenses, and it's very difficult to get.

[converter E]

[converter E] [converter E]

M39

The Lens Mount Converter A is used to mount M39 (Leica) screw mount lenses to Canon FD bodies, extension tubes, bellows, etcetera. There is no infinity focus with this converter.

The Lens Mount Converter B is used to mount Canon FD lenses on M39 screw mount rangefinder bodies such as the Canon Rangefinder Cameras: 1VSB2, V, P, 7, 7Sz, Leica Screwmount rangefinders or Leica M (bayonet) mount rangefinders with a bayonet to screw adapter. This adapter retains infinity focusing but there is no rangefinder coupling.

[converters B and A]

[converter A, front] [converter A, back]

[converter B, front] [converter B, back]

Custom Converters

It is possible to build a converter for any lens mount with a registration distance greater than 42.0mm. One such example is a OM-FD converter, which allows to mount Olympus OM lenses (46.0mm registration distance) on an FD body. The converter pictured below was custom built by a machinist; it's very crude, but works.

[custom converter OM, front] [custom converter OM, back]

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What case should I use for my lens?

The following tables detail the hard and soft cases Canon made for the FD lenses.

hard cases - breechlock-era FD
nameusable lenses
C FD 24mm f/2.8 S.S.C.
FD 28mm f/2.8 S.C.
FD 28mm f/3.5 S.C.
FD 35mm f/2 S.S.C.
FD 35mm f/3.5 S.C.
FD 50mm f/1.4 S.S.C.
FD 50mm f/1.8 S.C.
FL 28mm f/3.5
FL 35mm f/3.5
FL 35mm f/2.5
FL 50mm f/1.4
FL 55mm f/1.2
FLM 100mm f/4
D fish eye 7.5mm f/5.6 S.S.C
FD 50mm f/3.5 S.S.C MACRO
FD 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C.
FD 100mm f/2.8 S.S.C.
FL 85mm f/1.8
E FD 135mm f/2.5 S.C.
FD 135mm f/3.5 S.C.
FL 135mm f/3.5
FD 28-50mm f/3.5 S.S.C
F FD 35-70mm f/2.8-3.5 S.S.C
FD 100mm f/4 S.S.C. MACRO
FL 135mm f/2.5
G FL 200mm f/3.5
FD 80-200mm f/4 S.S.C.
H FL 100mm f/3.5
I fish-eye FD 15mm f/2.8 S.S.C.
FD 17mm f/4 S.S.C.
FD 20mm f/2.8 S.S.C.
FD 24mm f/1.4 S.S.C. ASPHERICAL
FD 55mm f/1.2 S.S.C.
FD 55mm f/1.2 S.S.C. ASPHERICAL
FD 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. ASPHERICAL
J FD 200mm f/4 S.S.C.
FL 200mm f/4.5
K FD 100-200mm f/5.6 S.C.
FL 100-200mm f/5.6
lens case exclusive TS 35mm f/2.8 S.S.C.
FD 200mm f/2.8 S.S.C.
FD 300mm f/5.6 S.C.
FL 55-135mm f/3.5
FL 300mm f/5.6 FLUORITE
FL 500mm f/5.6 FLUORITE
carrying case exclusive FL 400mm f/5.6
FL 600mm f/5.6
FL 800mm f/8
FL 1200mm f/11
FL 85-300mm f/5
   
hard cases - new FD
nameusable lenses
LH-A17 FD 200mm f/4
LH-B8 FD 35mm f/2.8
FD 50mm f/1.4
FD 50mm f/1.8
extender FD 1.4x-A
extender FD 2x-A
extender FD 2x-B
LH-B9 FD 24mm f/2
FD 24mm f/2.8
FD 28mm f/2
FD 28mm f/2.8
FD 35mm f/2
FD 50mm f/1.2
FD 50mm f/1.2L
LH-B12 FD 100mm f/2
FD 135mm f/2.8
FD 135mm f/3.5
FD 35-105mm f/3.5-4.5
LH-B15 FD 100mm f/4 MACRO
FD 35-70mm f/2.8-3.5
LH-B24 FD 300mm f/5.6
LH-C10 fish-eye FD 7.5mm f/5.6
fish-eye FD 15mm f/2.8
FD 17mm f/4
FD 20mm f/2.8
FD 50mm f/3.5 MACRO
FD 85mm f/1.8
FD 100mm f/2.8
LH-C13 FD 14mm f/2.8L
FD 24mm f/1.4L
FD 85mm f/1.2L
soft focus FD 85mm f/2.8
FD 135mm f/2
FD 20-35mm f/3.5L
LH-C16 FD 28-85mm f/4
FD 50-135mm f/3.5
FD 75-200mm f/4.5
LH-C19 FD 200mm f/2.8
FD 70-210mm f/4
FD 80-200mm f/4L
LH-C21 FD 100-300mm f/5.6
FD 100-300mm f/5.6L
LH-D24 FD 200mm f/4 MACRO
FD 300mm f/4
FD 300mm f/4L
LHP-B9 FD 28-55mm f/3.5-4.5
FD 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5
dedicated FD 300mm f/2.8L
FD 400mm f/2.8L
FD 400mm f/4.5
FD 500mm f/4.5L
FD reflex 500mm f/8
FD 600mm f/4.5
FD 800mm f/5.6L
FD 35-70mm f/4 AF
FD 50-300mm f/4.5L
FD 85-300mm f/4.5 
FD 150-600mm f/5.6L
FD macrophoto 20mm f/3.5
FD macrophoto 35mm f/2.8
   
soft cases - new FD
nameusable lenses
LS-A9 FD 24mm f/2
FD 24mm f/2.8
FD 28mm f/2
FD 28mm f/2.8
FD 35mm f/2
FD 35mm f/2.8
FD 50mm f/1.2
FD 50mm f/1.2L
FD 50mm f/1.4
FD 50mm f/1.8
extender FD 1.4x-A
extender FD 2x-A
extender FD 2x-B
LS-A18 FD 200mm f/4
FD 35-70mm f/2.8-3.5
LS-A24 FD 300mm f/5.6
LS-B11 fish-eye FD 7.5mm f/5.6
fish-eye FD 15mm f/2.8
FD 14mm f/2.8L
FD 17mm f/4
FD 20mm f/2.8
FD 24mm f/1.4L
FD 50mm f/3.5 MACRO
FD 85mm f/1.2L
FD 85mm f/1.8
soft focus FD 85mm f/2.8
FD 100mm f/2
FD 100mm f/2.8
FD 135mm f/2.8
FD 28-55mm f/3.5-4.5
FD 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5
FD 35-105mm f/3.5-4.5
LS-B13 FD 100mm f/4 MACRO
FD 135mm f/2
FD 135mm f/3.5
FD 20-35mm f/3.5L
LS-B16 FD 28-85mm f/4
FD 50-135mm f/3.5
FD 75-200mm f/4.5
LS-B21 FD 200mm f/2.8
FD 70-210mm f/4
FD 80-200mm f/4L
FD 100-300mm f/5.6
FD 100-300mm f/5.6L

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BODIES



What is MLU and what bodies have it?

The Mirror Lock Up (MLU) is a mechanism that allows to lock the mirror in the up position before releasing the shutter; its purpose is to eliminate one source of vibration during the picture cycle that could affect the image. The bodies F-1, FTb, FTb-N, F-1n and EF have it. Canon eliminated it in the New F-1 and subsequent FD bodies, based on better vibration dampening features.

There is an aftermarket modification to the T90 body that adds MLU capability to it.

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What are the battery requirements for the various FD bodies?

The A-series bodies and the New F-1 use 6V LR544 type batteries, except the AL-1, which takes AA batteries.

The T-series bodies use AA batteries; the T90 also uses an internal lithium battery for backup.

The EF, TLb, FTb, F-1 and F-1n bodies use the 1.35V mercury battery (PX-625, EPX625, or equivalent) for exposure.

This last group of bodies has a problem: the PX625 mercury batteries aren't being manufactured anymore, due to environmental hazards (think of the parrot's chocolate). There are a few options available:

Note about the EF: it was designed with a voltage regulator in the circuit, due to the use of two batteries needed to power the silicon metering cell (unique among Canon FD bodies). This allows the EF to not only use the 1.35V mercury cells that were available at the time they were marketed, but also to use modern silver oxide or alkaline cells.

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Does my X body require a circular or a linear polarizing filter?

The need for a circular polarizer in some bodies (not lenses) relates to the proper functioning of the TTL exposure meter when using the spot metering mode, because the sensor for the spot meter is placed behind the mirror and is affected by light passing through the semi-pellicle mirror. A linear polarizer would "mis-orient" (polarize) the light in a particular way to throw off the exposure. In the T90's case, the other sensor for the rest of the metering modes is located in the pentaprism and measures light bounced off the mirror rather than passed through it, so isn't affected by a linear polarizer. The FTb and New F-1 are in the same situation. Most FD cameras have their sensors in the pentaprism, and can thus use either polarizer safely.

Anyway, if a circular polarizer is required, a linear polarizer CAN be used, but is a pain in the a__ to determine the proper exposure with it mounted on the lens. On bodies that don't require a circular polarizer, either a linear or a circular may be used safely (in this situation, the former is preferred to the latter because linear polarizers are cheaper).

The bodies that require a circular polarizer are: F-1 (all models), FTb, AL-1, T80 and T90 (the T90 only really requires it for spot metering).

The bodies that can use either a circular or a linear polarizer are: EF, AE-1, AT-1, A-1, AV-1, AE-1 Program, T50 and T70.

There is no definitive information on the TX, TLb or T60 camera bodies, but they probably can use linear polarizers as well.


This is a more detailed explanation of the problem with polarizers:

The problem with bodies that "require" a circular polarizer is that there is something in the metering light path that already polarizes the light as seen by the meter. If you stick a normal linear polarizer on the lens, and rotate it, there will be two positions where the lens polarizer crosses the built-in polarization created by the meter light path, and at those positions, the meter thinks you are photographing the proverbial black cat in a coal bin at midnight, and indicates what turns out to be a whopping overexposure; at two other positions of the lens polarizer, it will be parallel to the built-in polarization, and the meter will indicate the correct exposure.

At in-between positions, various amounts of polarize crossing is taking place; you can't see it in the finder, but the meter's impression of light level is affected, and you get unpredictable exposures.

Note that you will not see this effect in the finder because it is that portion of the light split off to the meter that matters, not what you see in the finder. The metering patch in the finder may well darken at some points of rotation of the polarizer, but those are most likely different from the angular positions where the meter is affected.

If you are setting exposure manually, meter without the polarizer, and manually apply the correct filter factor - works fine, but it's a lot of trouble.

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What are the flash sync speeds for the different bodies?

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F-1, new F-1, F-1n... huh?

There are three different "F-1" models:

The first two models can swap finders, winders, motor drives, screens and backs. None of these will swap with the New F-1. The first two models have a mirror lock-up ability the New F-1 does not.

The first two models are mechanical, requiring the battery only for the meter. On the other hand, the New F-1 doesn't operate without a battery, except at shutter speeds of 1/90" and above, and then only if there is no battery (not even a dead one) in the holder.

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There are two EF bodies?

There are two versions of the EF body: bodies below serial number 330000 have a microprism focusing screen; above it, they have a split-image screen.

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What's the difference between an FTb and an FTb-N?

The FTb-N has these features, and the FTb doesn't:

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What are the focusing screens available for each body?

Some bodies have interchangeable focusing screens.

F-1 and F-1n

Screens for both these models will have either a single letter or two, in which case the first one will be an 'L' - these are the laser-cut screens and are brighter than the standard screen.

New F-1

Screens always have two letters. The first one will always be 'A' ("center weighted Averaging"), 'P' ("Partial metering") or 'S' ("Spot metering"), followed by a letter that represents the focusing aid the screen has. Leonard Foo's site has a complete listing of the 32 New F-1 focusing screens available.

A-1

There are seven different screens available:

They're all hard to find, although the I screen is the most difficult one.

Unlike the T90 screens, the A-1 ones weren't meant to be quickly replaced by a user but by a repairman.

The A-1 body cannot use the AE-1 Program's screens or the other way around.

AE-1 Program

There are eight screens available:

T90

There are eight screens available.

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What are the differences between the winders A and A2?

The Winder A2 can use NiCad and Alkaline batteries, while the Winder A can only use alkalines. The A2 has a single/continuous switch, whereas the A does not. The Winder A2 has a remote release socket and a wide horizontal base.

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What are the different flash couplers for the F-1n?

There are three models:

The D model is the most common type, L is less common, and F is pretty rare.

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Replacement eyecups for the T90?

The original T90 eyecup is not being produced anymore. However, the current eyecup EF is very similar and works just as fine.

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ACCESORIES



What are the differences between the all the bellows models?

The autobellows is the most sophisticated model. It extends from 39mm up to 175mm; allows turning the camera from horizontal to vertical position; requires double cable release for full aperture focusing; requires stopped down metering; has a built-in focusing rail.

The intermediate model is the Bellows FL. It extends up to 150mm; has a shorter extension than the autobellows and no camera flipping capabilities, but it maintains the automatic diaphragm control of a normally mounted FD or FL lens; has a built-in focusing rail.

The simplest model is the Bellows M. It has a shorter extension than the other two bellows, has no camera flipping capabilities, no full aperture focusing with double cable release, no full aperture metering, no built in focusing rail.

The Bellows R is an older model that came out with the Canonflex R series bodies.

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What is the difference between the macrophoto coupler FL and the macro adapter MA?

Both allow reversing the lens on the camera body. The coupler FL has a focusing hellicoid, which allows focusing of the reverse mounted lens without moving the entire lens/body assembly. The macro adapter MA has no focusing capabilities.

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Is there an underwater housing for my camera?

The A-1, AE-1 and AE-1 Program bodies, fitted with a Winder A (possibly an A2 could also be used), can be mounted inside a Canon Marine Capsule A; this housing can go down to 60 meters deep. This device was made in low numbers, so it's extremely hard to get.

[marine capsule, left side view]

There's a separate page with a full set of pictures of the Marine Capsule A.

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RELATED STUFF



How can I use my FD lenses on EOS bodies?

The FD and the EF mounts (the lenses used by the EOS bodies) are different (the section describing the difference between breech-lock and bayonet mount has a picture with the different mounts), so an adapter is required. To make things worse, Canon EOS registration distance is 44.0mm (longer than FD's 42.0mm), so a simple adapter without any optics will not retain infinity focus.

Canon manufactured two converters:

The Canon Lens Converter FD-EOS

This converter contains optics that retain infinity focusing and increase the focal length by 1.26x; the aperture decreases by 2/3 of a stop (except the FD 200mm f/1.8L, which decreases by 1 stop). It has a protuberance that will get inside the empty rear space of the lens, so only lenses with this shape (i.e. telephotos) can be used.

Its main purpose was to allow pros to keep using their (expensive) telephotos, so Canon didn't make many units of this converter: they're a bit hard to get and sell for high prices. There are cheap third party adapters (of varying quality) that can easily be obtained.

Lenses know to fit:

Any lens with a breech-lock mount cannot be used.

The instructions state it will work with an EOS-1. It should also work with the EOS 1V and 1Ds. However, some models won't work because there is not enough clearance to put the mount on.

Here's a picture of this converter (click on the image to get the full-sized version):

[converter FD-EOS]

There's a separate page with several more pictures of the Canon Lens Converter FD-EOS.

The Canon Macro Lens Mount Converter FD-EOS

This is a simple mount adapter with no optics, wich means it can take any FD lens AND that it won't retain infinity focusing - it's good only for closeups (hence the name). Again, Canon didn't make many of these, so it's hard to get, but cheap third party adapters can be easily obtained.

Here are two pictures of this converter - the first one (click on it to get the full-sized version) has a rear cap, while the second one has none:

[macro onverter FD-EOS (with rear cap)]

[macro converter FD-EOS (without any caps)]

Robert Chisholm has obtained minimum and maximum focusing distances of several Canon FD lenses attached to EOS bodies with the Canon Macro Lens Mount Converter FD-EOS.

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CREDITS

Several members from the Canon FD mailing list have contributed to this document. They are, in alphabetical order:

The section about the teleconverters was taken almost verbatim from http://www.kjsl.com/canon-fd/ (now gone). The original text was written by Greg Tims.

The information about lens cases was taken straight out of the Canon Lens Work book, 1986 edition, page 179. Several portions of the information available here were taken from the Lens Wonderland (Canon FD Lens Guide Book), 1982 edition. Part of the information about bellows was taken from Canon's Close-up System brochure.

The pictures of the converters come from various sources:

The pictures of the Marine Capsule A were provided by Eric de Coster.

The sets of FD-EOS converter pictures were provided by e-bay seller Ian Hobday.

The OM-FD custom converter pictures were provided by Miguel Farah.

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REVISION HISTORY

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